What are bleaching products?
Bleaching products are used to suppress pigmentation in order to lighten hyperpigmented areas. There are two well known products with bleaching mechanisms effective on the skin, hydroquinone and kojic acid. Another effective product for bleaching and evening pigmented spots is Mandelic Acid. These are used to treat various pigmented spots such as age spots, melasma, and freckles.
Hydroquinone lightens the color of the skin areas to which it is applied by killing off the melanin making cells (known as the melanocyte). It is the only FDA approved product for bleaching. It does this for about 60-70% of its users. Lustra® is one of the most well known prescription hydroquinone products. Its 4% Hydroquinone concentration can provide results in as little as four weeks. Lustra can be obtained from a pharmacy with a doctor's prescription. Any hydroquinone products available without requiring a prescription cannot have more than 2% hydroquinone. Medical researchers have established that 70% of patients who use skin creams containing high amounts (4% or more) of Hydroquinone for an extended period of time (one-three years) develop Exogenous Ochronosis, "an irreversible disfiguring cosmetic problem". Cosmetic Ochronosis (also known as Exogenous Ochronosis) was first described by Findlay and his group of researchers in 1975. This group found that the continued use of HQ based skin bleaching products lead to a progressive discoloration of the skin. This problem is mostly limited to very dark skin types.
When using Hydroquinone, it is imperative to stay out of the sun for the treatment to work. Always wear full spectrum sunblock and a hat. Exposure to sun deteriorates the hydroquinone, rendering it ineffective. If you are planning on being in the sun, use a hydroquinone-free formula, such as the pHaze13 *HQ free Pigment Gel.
Kojic Acid was first discovered in Japan in 1907 and is used as an alternative to hydroquinone. Kojic Acid is not an alpha hydroxy acid, but uses the same mechanism of action as hydroquinone. Research shows Kojic Acid to be an effective lightening agent that inhibits the production of melanin (brown pigment). It is widely consumed in the Japanese diet and is believed to be beneficial to health. Kojic Acid is less irritating than hydroquinone.
Other: There are more and more new skin lightening agents being discovered as alternatives to hydroquinone are being sought. Here are a few ingredients with lightening effects:
* Azelaic Acid
* Bearberry Extract
* Licorice Extract
* Mulberry Extract
* Arbutin
How do I use bleaching products?
Bleaching products differ in application recommendations - but there are a few good guidelines that apply:
* Always wear a broad-spectrum sunscreen. The sun can deactivate hydroquinone. The sun is also responsible for contributing to pigmentation problems; if you want to solve your pigment problem, then you must avoid contributing factors.
* Keep the routine simple. The fewer products you use, the less chance of irritation there is. Many bleaching products are aggressive and it can be hard to combine bleaching products with other products without irritation. There are a few products that can enhance a bleaching cream's performance. These can include vitamin C products, Tretinoin, a separate alpha hydroxy acid product, and special cleansers or toners to prep the skin. With the exception of the prepping products, it would be wise to alternate the use of the two products rather than applying both at the same time. This can minimize the risk of irritation or adverse reactions. After a few weeks of use - some products may be applied together with the bleaching cream.
* If melasma is being treated, it is vital to keep using the product until permission is given from a doctor to quit. Sometimes, even if the melasma has faded to the point where it is no longer noticeable, it is still there. The only way to tell if the melasma is completely gone is with a Wood's lamp examination. Otherwise, it is very easy for the same spot to make a reappearance.
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